Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Charming Çanakkale

Turkey has many marvelous places that come highly recommended, and it can be hard to decide where to go next, especially when you've just arrived and the country is your oyster. Instead of going directly south to Izmir on the way to Ephesus, we decided to take things a bit more slowly and explore the North Aegean region. On the way to the beachy island of Bozcaada lies the city of Çanakkale. We are using it as a way point, but it is better known for its proximity to two important sites.

First, Çanakkale is across from the Galipolli peninsula, the sight of the Allied WWI campaign, the successful Turkish defence and the 'Anzac' legend. I had never heard of Anzac until Chad and I chatted with some Kiwi and Aussie girls in Ireland who had just been to Turkey for Anzac Day (April 25). The campaign was designed by Britain to knock Turkey out of WWI and open a relief route to Russia. It was an utter disaster, and by the end 130,000 troops had died (a third Allied forces and the rest Turkish). Australians and New Zealanders make pilgrimages here for Anzac Day, as their forces were a huge part of the second wave of the campaign.  (A bit like Vimy Ridge is for Canadians.)

Second, Çanakkale is near the historical site of Troy, which is widely reputed to be not worth the effort of visiting.

We arrived late afternoon and spent a few hours exploring this lovely city.


A memorial to the Turks' victory, on the Gallipoli peninsula in Eceabat. The Turks celebrate the anniversary their victory on March 18, 1915. The leader of their successful campaign? Mustafa Kemal, who you and I know better as Ataturk, founder of the modern Turkish state.


Strolling the windswept promenade in Çanakkale.


Fishing boats as far as the eye can see.


This was the Trojan horse used in the 2004 movie Troy (starring pre-Brangelina Brad Pitt), which was donated to the city and has been here since 2004. Apparently better than the reconstructed horse at the site of Troy itself. Chad had difficulty striking a proper Achilles pose.


A big sundial on the promenade. Very accurate!  (Once you adjust for daylight savings time.)


A model of Troy, though from what year we weren't sure as the English on the display plaques was somewhat broken (though the effort still much appreciated).



We stopped on the waterfront for 50 kuru cups of cay (about 30 cents Canadian). Best consumed with two lumps of sugar. I don't know whether it was dehydration, the long bus ride, or if the cay was magical, but we stumbled out of there feeling like our heads were going to explode. It was delicious.


Turkish pide (pizza) for dinner. Basically North American pizza without the tomato sauce. Cheap, and also delicious.


Our host told us that we had to check out the famous 'mirrored bazaar'. I only saw about three mirrors, so perhaps we were missing something. In any event, it was a refreshing change from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul for its lack of other shoppers and annoying touts.


Fresh cherries glistening in the setting sun at a stand full of mouthwatering fruits and veggies that we stumbled across in a back alley. Only about $3.20 Canadian for a whole kilogram!

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