Showing posts with label Washington. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Washington. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Tomyhoi Mountain

Upon returning to Vancouver from the Olympic Peninsula, we had the incredible good fortune of finding a place to stay through Jason, our friend who had put us up and toured us around Germany earlier in the year. He moved back to Vancouver over the summer, and arranged for us to use his parents' vacant second house for many days.  He has practically been our personal travel concierge, finding us perfect (and free) accommodations on multiple continents.  A million thank-yous to Jason and his wonderful parents!

Sarah's brother Shaun invited us to do a day hike with some of his friends to northern Washington State.  Sarah couldn't go but I was game, if a bit resigned to trailing far behind Shaun and his hard-core, incredibly fit mountaineering buddies.

Good thing I went - Tomyhoi Mountain was probably the best all-around day hike I've been on.

Shaun, Misha, Tina, Mike and I left from Vancouver at about 6 am in Misha's truck, crossing the border at Sumas shortly after passing some police investigators marking what appeared to be the scene of a drive-by shooting.  Ah, Sumas.  

Tomyhoi Mountain is a bit north of Mt. Baker, close to the Canadian border.  I'm not sure how long the hike is, but it was a very full day - about 1200m elevation gain (not counting the big roller-coaster ups and downs) with some serious scrambling at the top.  Misha brought climbing rope, and most of the others brought ice axes and climbing harnesses and helmets just in case.  Me - well, my equipment consisted largely of a floppy hat... thankfully my lack of gear didn't turn out to be a big issue.

We hit the trail at 9:10am, climbing up through forest for over an hour before hitting subalpine elevations.



While the sky was clear, it was quite hazy from forest fire smoke.  So while it looked cloudy, it was really hot the whole day, and there was almost zero shade.

Mt. Baker through the smoke

Low-level mist

Now that's hiking.  A great dane with two saddle bags and a back pack.  After all, it is almost as big as a mule.

View from not quite halfway.  We were headed for the pointy, isolated peak on top and in the middle of the photo.  And yes, in front of us was the first of several unfortunate downhill slopes we encountered on the way up.

Quick break for a view

Shaun on steep switchbacks down to the plateau

Looking NW - impressive rise from the valley to the peaks 

Tomyhoi pokes it head out from behind the next hill

Surveying another very steep downhill, followed by more uphill

About to plunge into the gulley

Looking back at the knife-edge ridge we just made our way along

Almost 3/4 of the way up. You'd be able to see even further without the smoke haze.

Shaun with Tomyhoi in the background, which is the lower peak on the left (though it's the highest - it's just far behind the right-hand peak)

Tomyhoi.  See the little white dots on the right side of it?  People.  That's the route up. Gulp.

At this point I looked at the peak and thought "yikes - it looks totally impassable without full rock-climbing gear."  It's definitely steep and exposed, but looks better up close.

Walking around a couple of small glaciers - it was nice to borrow an ice axe, since if you got sliding you'd end up either in a crevasse or going over the lip of the glacier and down a large cliff.  But the path along the edges was stable.

Not the peak, just a quick scramble we needed to make

The "crux" - the final steep climb to the peak.  Zoiks.

When we hit the crux, well, it still looked pretty formidable.  No one was going to go up unless they felt comfortable, and we did have some harnesses and rope.  After some analysis, it looked like there was only about a 15-foot stretch that was exceptionally challenging and exposed, so we all thought we'd give it a shot without aids and see how it went.

Shaun just after the crux, getting up on the shoulder

And we all made it!  Once past the crux there's a bit more scrambling, and you definitely don't want to lose your footing as there are serious drop-offs on all sides - but the work is pretty much done at this point.

The crew, just past the crux.  The guy at the top was fixing ropes so his girlfriend and 12-year-old son could climb up the crux, which is on the other side of this rock


At the peak of Tomyhoi, striking an appropriate pose.

The rest of the group, as seen from the summit looking east.  What an amazing view.

Chad and Shaun

Apparently you can see this glacier from the highway near Chilliwack. 

Crevasses near the cliff edge

Explorer poses

Tina and Mike on the peak

The valley floor is a looooong way down from here

Starting my descent down the final peak scramble.  Knife-edge ridge is noticeable in the distance. 

Misha on top

The 12-year-old coming up the crux with rope and harness

Looking back at the knife-edge ridge we walked earlier, and that we would traverse again on the way down.

Mike and Tina coming down the crux.  A bit steep, no?

The team coming down the crux - as seen from the bottom of it

Closeup of the crux

It started to clear up a bit on the way down

Lots of red fungus/lichen on the snow

Hardy mountaineers, with conquered Tomyhoi peak to the right

Shaun and a sweet view down

Oh God, seriously, we have to go back up these unnecessary gulleys?

Yep, there's our path up one of the climbs on the return trip.  Ugh.

Mt. Baker became a bit more visible toward sunset

The hike out was pretty long after such a big day, and I was happy to have Shaun's hiking poles for the last 1/2 hour as my legs/knees were starting to cramp up.  We had each taken close to three litres of water, and had all run out more than an hour from the end - it was much hotter and more exposed than we had bargained for.  Idyllic weather.

Mt Shuksan, just east of Mt. Baker, is very impressive in the evening light

A final look at Baker just as we descend to the parking area

We made it down just before 6:30pm - about 9:15 hiking time all-in, including breaks and waiting for people to clear the crux (at least 30 minutes, probably more).  We stopped at a gas station for much-needed rehydration, and then drove to Bellingham for a well-deserved bite and pint at Boundary Bay Brewing Company.

Hiking days don't get any better than this!  Many thanks to Shaun, Misha, Mike and Tina for a great time all around.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Pretty Port Townsend

After our night of beer in Bellingham, we headed south with no particular destination in mind other than 'the Olympic Peninsula'.  Rather than go all the way south via Olympia to get there (as recommended by many of the websites I had looked at), we decided to go via Whidbey Island - a much shorter route, though at about 50 miles in length Whidbey is apparently the longest island in the continental US.  (Note from Chad: but this 'fact' is from the same guidebook that said the Olympic Peninsula was home to the "only temperate rainforest in North America."  I'm sure that's news to the temperate rainforests in BC.)

The north of Whidbey Island has the very lovely Deception Pass, but since we were there a couple years ago and took a bunch of pictures then we didn't stop this time.  But you should go check it out yourself (come on, the McFrothys can't do it all!) 

We stopped for lunch at Oak Harbour.  Sounds nice, right?  The guidebook wasn't so complimentary - calling it Whidbey's largest (and most drab) town.  This turned out to be a fairly accurate assessment.  (Note from Chad: though to be fair, the waterfront park was OK.)

Oak Harbour is home to a large naval base, and these planes greet you alongside the road on your way into town.  

Nice view from the town's park.  The fighter jets (hopefully just practicing!) roared overhead while we ate.

Chad gave some tips to the locals - this guy was doing an okay job but had missed a spot.

The ferry to the Olympic Peninsula runs from the Coupeville terminal on Whidbey Island to Port Townsend.  Despite warning signs all along the road that we should make a reservation, we pulled up with half an hour to spare until the next ferry and got on it just fine.  These are the pleasures of travelling in September!

Chad investigates potential destinations.


It might just be a ferry terminal, but there's still beautiful clear water and sandy beaches to be had.

The ferry ride is about half an hour, and for car, driver, and two passengers was only about $15.  Ahem - I'm looking at you, BC Ferries.

Note from Chad: that throw bag looks to have about 15 feet of rope in it.  And this deck is at least 20 feet above the water.  Not sure how much use a life buoy will be when dangling 5 feet above the water... :-)


Port Townsend from the water.

Okay, so we were technically on a camping trip.  But after checking out the RV-friendly, expensive, near-full state park near Port Townsend we decided perhaps a hotel would be a better idea for the night.  We ended up in a relatively cheap room at the lovely Palace Hotel, a Victorian building that used to be a brothel.  Port Townsend is full of Victorian buildings.  In the 1890s, a bunch of rich settlers were confident that the railway would be built to reach Port Townsend and built a ton of fancy homes and businesses.  Sadly for them, that didn't happen and they ended up with a bunch of fancy buildings but no way to make the income to keep them up.  The town fell into disrepair until a revival in the 1960s when many of the buildings were restored.  Now Port Townsend is a great little town - nice to look at, lots of restaurants, and... wait for it... a brewery!

Our room.

I'm pretty sure I saw a ghost in this hallway when I went out to use the washroom in the middle of the night, and a note in the guestbook claims that a previous visitor had their own ghostly experience.

This parlour looks ripe for the haunting to me.

Port Townsend Brewing.

The taproom where we sampled their wares.  There's also a nice garden out back where they regularly host live music.

I just loved this name for a coffee shop!

Dinner on the patio at 'Sirens'.


Chad versus the ice cream.  I think the ice cream won this one. (Note from Chad: no, I clearly defeated my old nemesis.)


The buildings feature lots of old painted signs;  I'm guessing that this one for Bull Durham wouldn't be allowed today. 


I highly recommend Port Townsend for a weekend visit from Vancouver - it's closer than Seattle and really great!  Of course, the sunny weather didn't hurt, and that would continue the next day as we made our way into the wilds of the Olympic Peninsula...