Friday, January 11, 2013

The Great Ocean Road

The heat in Victoria dipped a bit, and the bushfire danger backed off slightly, so we rented a car (a sweet Kia Cerato) and drove the Great Ocean Road.  This is the famous seaside drive that was built with post-war labour, often by hand.


We drove through Torquay (home of both Rip Curl and Quiksilver surf companies) to Bell's Beach - above - the famous surf destination where the Rip Curl surf competition is held each year.  It's also the beach where the final showdown between Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze supposedly took place in the movie Point Break.


We made the mistake of starting the drive at noon on the last major holiday weekend of the Christmas season.  So our usual view wasn't of beaches and surf, but was more like the above - stop and go traffic that barely moved.  It took about 7 hours to get to our destination of Warrnambool.  (It also became apparent that many Australians, much like Albertans, become terrified on even moderately curved roads and slow to a crawl.)


Nice view, but not the most efficient building method.




One of the best views we got on the road.  More great water and surf and beaches - though that's a pretty regular sight in eastern and southern Australia.


Later in the drive we hit some grander-than-average sights - the famous 12 apostles, sandstone pillars rising out of the ocean.  There aren't actually 12, and many have crumbled away in the past several years.  But it's still a massive tourist/tour bus destination.










We also encountered some nice local signage on the road:


Apparently tourists rent cars on these roads - enough that they need reminding to stay to the left!


A more effective way than to keep tourists off the natural areas than a fence - poisonous snakes could be lurking in the brush!


One of my favourites.  "Die" is satisfyingly clear.  Also true - that sandstone is incredibly unstable.

The Great Ocean Road was a nice drive, despite the traffic.  And there were a couple of impressive sections like the 12 Apostles and some high curvy bits.  But Sarah and I also drove the Oregon Coast this year, and the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper National Parks, among others.  So I probably would have named it the "nice and very picturesque road" instead.

We stayed the night about a somewhat noisy but comfy pub in Warrnambool, then had a peek at the oceanfront park and seawall in the morning.




Yep, that's kelp that has been thrown over 20 feet of seawall by the surf.  Not many natural harbours on this part of the coast - important to have a bit of seawall to protect your boat from the waves.


Nice kid-friendly swimming beach behind some little islands that you can walk to at low tide.


We went to Tower Hill Reserve next, an nature reserve on a small island in a lake filling a volcanic caldera about 6 km circumference, all within sight of the ocean.  Very picturesque.


Kangaroos were a possibility - but we didn't see any.  And we didn't see any koalas either, despite looking carefully for them.   Drat!


Drove around the rim of the caldera first.


Then drove onto the island and walked to the top of the highest hill.






The reserve did have 2 animals in abundance: 1) Flies (no wonder the Aussies used to dangle corks off their hat brims, these flies swarm your face like nothing I've experienced), and 2) Emus!  Sweet.



We ventured inland and took a volcanic-themed drive in the Colac area.  The area is apparently a huge, ancient lava field, though it's covered with grasslands now so you can't really tell.  It also contains some small volcanic hills and salt lakes.


Posing by some red lava rock on top of a hill before running back to the car to escape the flies.  (Nearby cattle farms don't help the fly situation.)


Out trusty steed.


This area has been cattle/sheep country for well over a century.  According to a local information centre volunteer, shepards used to watch over the livestock - but when the local gold rush occurred, the shepards all left for the gold fields.  So they had to start fencing in the livestock instead.  They imported experts from Europe to help construct stone fences, which were hammered together with no mortar, and many of which still stand today.  Lots of Irish names and culture in the area as a result.


We saw a nearby winery and stopped for a sample.  Decent pinot noir.


Then we drove past a real salt lake, almost entirely without water.  Nothing but fine white crystals under the blazing sun.



However, underneath the thin layer of crystals was moist, sticky lava clay.  It was clear that any vehicle venturing out on the salt would be instantly mired.

We spent the night in Geelong, then headed back to Melbourne for a night.  Sarah took some classy black-and-white photos there.


Federation Square and its angular, jumbled buildings.



The main station opposite Federation Square.


Wicker art.


Tallest building in Melbourne - new condos.


One of Melbourne's famous downtown laneways, where all the cool restaurants and clubs are.


Beer Deluxe, a great beer bar at Federation Square where we sampled several great Australian beers and I had a long-overdue and extensive craft beer nerd discussion with a friendly and helpful Scottish bartender.

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