After another short flight on Air New Zealand (and another viewing of their hilarious safety video), we landed in Christchurch, NZ, on the South Island. Ah, the land of the Maori, of proper Rugby, of Kiwis and kiwis and fruit that looks like a kiwi. But after stepping off the plane, it was mostly... nice. Really nice. No more burning heat, just a pleasant mid-20 temperature, a wide variety of green trees and flowers, green fields, and mountains. People told us NZ is a lot like western Canada/British Columbia - and that's absolutely true. The foliage is different, as are the accents, but geography and climate are strikingly similar. Which helped to make us feel instantly at home.
Christchurch is a pretty town - with a huge city park, cafes, and a relaxed air about it. It was also the epicenter of a couple of earthquakes very recently, which you probably heard about. The second quake absolutely devastated the town, especially the old and/or tall buildings in the CBD (Central Business District = "downtown"). There has been a lot of cleanup, but earthquake evidence is everywhere - including many empty lots where buildings should be, and were. There were also landslides, cracks opening in the earth, etc.
Just a block from our hostel. Yes, the steeple usually goes on top.
The quake has spurred some innovative and cool ventures, partly out of necessity. Transferring your business to a shipping container is a big one - and rather than just doing so temporarily, it is becoming a common look/fashion, especially for pubs and cafes. The above is Smash Palace - an open air beer garden surrounded by scaffolding. It's quite charming.
Rear left is the shipping container kitchen.
Bus for a bar. Oh, and REALLY good craft beer, also more reasonably priced than Australia. Great New Zealand craft beer was everywhere in Christchurch. I've rarely been so happy. :-)
Again, one block from our hostel. Doesn't look too bad until you look inside the building at the ceilings.
Christchurch's famous cathedral, whose huge tower/steeple was so damaged it had to be removed (what hadn't already fallen).
Cleanup continues in the CBD. They have ambitious plans for creating a livable, pedestrian-focused downtown core, taking advantage of the reconstruction opportunity. But it will be a while before that becomes reality. This is one of the few open streets through the downtown core - almost all of it is fenced off and inaccessible due to unstable buildings. We were two of the many "earthquake tourists" who walked around these open CBD surveying the damage.
A tribute of 180 or so chairs, representing the people killed in the quakes.
But right on the edge of the CBD, rent appears to be cheap. Cassels and Sons Brewery has a beautiful new pub located there - it's a very Portland-esque place with great beer and a nice patio.
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| I couldn't agree more |
Christchurch also has great coffee on every corner, like this beauty from the Addington Coffee Co-op.
The Avon River flows through town. You can rent kayaks or "Canadian boats" (i.e. canoes) for a calm paddle.
Our rooftop hostel dinner and view wasn't bad either.
Several antique buildings have more or less survived, but still aren't safe to enter. The above is off limits, but across the street the worthwhile (and free) Cantebury museum is still open.
Lots of cool Maori art and history in the museum, as well as an Antarctica display. (New Zealand operates Scott Base in the Antarctic.)
Also in the museum is a replica of the Paua Shell House, an older couple's house that they operated as a free attraction for years, that was jammed full of paua (abalone) shells and other shells. After they passed on, they reconstructed it in the museum.
Cantebury Museum is on the edge of the botanical gardens and the massive city park. This city just kept getting better and more relaxing as we wandered. What could be better?
Oh, you're going to add another great craft beer bar to the equation? OK, it just got better. Pomeroy's is known as the go-to craft beer bar in Christchurch, and was very cozy. We met up with Matt, a former VanBrewer who recently returned to his native Christchurch, for a pint or two. He was good enough not only to tell us all about the beer scene, but also to give us a big & detailed rundown of places to go and things to see all around NZ. Thanks Matt!
We strolled partway back to the hostel with Matt, who pointed out some interesting things. Like the public displays that have been spontaneously erected in lots where earthquake-damaged houses were removed. The above contains a walkway with a book exchange in an old commercial refrigerator. Cool. Matt mentioned that the housing close to the CBD used to be a lot more dense, but many places have been damaged and several removed, so it's now much more sparse.
He also pointed out these fractured girders set beside a bridge, which are not from the earthquakes - they're actually structural steel from the former World Trade Center buildings in New York.
Another lot transformed into a park with art, looking towards the CBD.
Christchurch has been through a lot, but it is a nice little city with a great vibe and some interesting stuff punctuating its overall relaxed atmosphere. I'm glad we'll be returning here in order to fly to the north island.
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