Showing posts with label Chiang Mai. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chiang Mai. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Thai Chef School

On the recommendation of our Thailand-travelling friends Grace and Luke, we attended Basil Cookery School with a nice German couple (Jen and Michael), and were taught by chef Owen.  We can't recommend them enough - we learned a lot about Thai ingredients and cooking techniques, the facilities were comfortable and complete, our instructor was very friendly and helpful, and they kept the student:teacher ratio to 4:1.  Plus we absolutely gorged on Thai food we made ourselves - 6 courses entirely from scratch (including making curry paste and making coconut milk).

[Sarah: This was a particularly exciting day for me, as I had been watching Chad eat Thai food for days on end and was unable to partake.  Since the school could accommodate my allergies and my vegetarianism, this was my chance to try it out!]

(Warning: many amateur photos of food follow.)


Sarah is extremely happy at the prospect of eating something besides Subway and rice noodles for the first time since arriving in Thailand.


Basil picked us up and drove us to the school in typical Chiang Mai taxi fashion - a pickup truck with seats in the back.


Our first stop was at one of Chiang Mai's many markets.  Owen spent at least 20-30 minutes doing a show-and-tell, describing Thai produce to us.  This was insanely valuable - we love food markets, but until this point didn't really know what most of the fruits and vegetables were in Thailand.  A huge variety.

Several types of eggplant, Thai ginger, finger-like radishes, limes, hot peppers,etc...

The wee eggplants that, cut in quarters, are used in green curry

Kaffir lime and a kaffir lime leaf.  So aromatic!

Chef Owen with a loofa.  You can eat it when it's young like this.  If you let it grow to maturity, then hang it to dry and let the skin fall off, you get the loofa (sponge) like you use to scrub yourself with in the shower

A banana flower with a petal peeled back

Lots of snack food at the market too, like these chips, beans and nuts

Or banana leaves filled with spicy wee fish or shrimp


The happy Basil kitchen.  I clearly need to buy myself a proper wok and a stove frame to hold it.


First dish: Sarah's wok-made vegetarian drunken noodles.  Her favourite dish.  [Sarah: Understatement of the year.  It was so tasty that I almost cried when I ate it :)]


I was happy to be diving into classic pad thai noodles (100% wok-made) for my first dish.

If only my haircut was as good as this plate of pad thai...

The course was worth the price of the first dish alone.  So good!  Also interesting was how few dried/preserved herbs and spices Thai cooking uses.  The pad thai, apart from a couple of standard sauces (fish sauce, oyster sauce, tamarind sauce), uses none - all the spice is from fresh ingredients.


Next up was soup - Sarah with a mild coconut milk-based vegetarian option, me with a prawn soup tom yum style (smoked chili sauce).  Fantastic, and only takes a few minutes to make.  I was stuffed and feeling very content by this point.  But there were 4 more courses to come...


Sarah sets about making spring rolls.


Lots of fresh, quickly-stir-fried ingredients are sealed in wrappers and...


...plunged into hot oil.  Basil uses soya oil for all its cooking.


The finished rolls, including one cute basket version.

 

Instead of spring rolls, I chose classic green papaya salad.  You shred green (unripe) papaya (the big, more asian-style one), which is not unlike cabbage.  Then you pound it in a big clay mortar with herbs, spices and sauces to make a spicy coleslaw-like salad.


I waited a bit too long before eating it, so a lot of juice escaped.  But it was still tasty and refreshing.


Next up was - CURRY!  Now we're talking.  I did green curry - my favourite - while everyone else did red.  The ingredients are nearly identical, except that green curry uses fresh hot peppers (a bit hotter) and eggplant, while the red uses dried and rehydrated (thus red) hot peppers.

Classic Thai "bird's eye" hot peppers are used, and these are pounded with a few dried herbs, garlic, lemongrass and several other ingredients.  And pounded.  And pounded. Until finally you end up with a tasty paste.


Sarah goes to town on the red curry paste.  Her left hand is in a recommended defensive position, so that the hot ingredients don't squirt up into your eye.  I let my guard down for a minute and got a little pepper juice in the eye and wow, I can confirm it burns!  Protective glasses are probably your best bet.


My finished green curry paste.  Drooooool.


Thai curry also requires coconut milk.  Which we made!  Put fresh coconut in a blender, wrap it in cheese cloth, steep in warm water then squeeze repeatedly.


Thai cooking rocks!


Ingredients for our stir fries laid out on the table.  Oddly enough the stir fry was the least interesting of the dishes we cooked - pretty basic flavours, which I suppose would be good if your tastebuds aren't big fans of exotic flavours.


Sarah's tofu stir fry next to her vegetarian red curry.  Very nice.  Cooking vegetarian Thai means replacing the ubiquitous fish sauce with light soya sauce, and the oyster sauce with mushroom sauce [Sarah: I was shocked by how tasty the mushroom sauce was; I will definitely be sourcing this when I get home!].


My minced pork stir fry beside my unbelievably great green curry.


Finally, my dessert.  Lady finger bananas (the little, flavourful ones), coated in shredded coconut and a bit of flour, sugar and salt, deep fried about 15-20 minutes, and served with some vanilla ice cream.  Very good.


But the surprised winner of the dessert course was Sarah's black sticky rice pudding.  Here she is toasting coconut in a wok with a little sugar and salt.  The dessert is a layer of black sticky rice (cooked 1 hour), covered with some coconut cream, and topped by a huge sheaf of toasted coconut.  When you get all three layers in a spoonful - oh man, heaven.

Sarah's deceptively tasty dessert

The class, happy and full

Feeling perfectly content, we went back to our room and half-slept/digested most of the remainder of the day away.  We got a certificate and a great little recipe book so we can try to make some of these dishes back home - though we'll likely have to find substitutions for some ingredients.  Thanks again Basil!

More Chiang Mai

Originally we had booked in for three nights in Chiang Mai, but the cooking class we wanted to take wasn't immediately available.  We decided to extend our stay and relax a bit.  It may seem funny that we were happy for a travel break, but given that we had been so busy our last few days in New Zealand, then had two trans-oceanic flights in four days followed by some marathon touristing in Bangkok, a break actually didn't sound so bad!

So how did we fill our days?

We checked out the night market outside the nearby mall.  Stalls serving up tasty homemade Thai food, and even full foot massage and Thai massage areas - sandwiched between a Sizzler and a Starbucks.


We checked out more temples in the day time.


We found a lovely park where the locals (and some showy falang (foreigners) practising handstands) hang out on Saturday evenings.  In the shot below, you see that one girl even brought a table on which to set up her laptop.


We visited the Saturday Walking Street, which is Chiang Mai's Saturday evening market.  There is also a Sunday Walking Street, but the locals we ran into said the Saturday market is much better (and less crowded), so we followed their advice and went to check it out.  We got there pretty early, which turned out well as we missed the bulk of the crowds.

I don't know what these are, but they probably fall in the category of cute-but-useless.

Just some of the many, many kinds of juice available.  I'm not sure how I feel about the sweet corn - delicious or disgusting?  I turned down the chance to find out.  At 30 cents a bottle, the experiment was just too costly...


We almost bought these 'I heart dog' shorts for my Dad until we remembered that he's not a 300 pound tourist so they probably wouldn't fit.

More food for Chad to try.

Look!  I can eat street food too!  Corn off the cob, with sugar, salt, and condensed milk.   Yummy.

Kids fish in the moat at sunset.

And more opportunities for street food.

The sun sets over Chiang Mai.  Yes, it's quite smoggy there.

If it's deep fried, it must be delicious.

We checked out temples in the night time.



One day we splurged and went to a fancy spa for an extended massage.  The next day, back to reality, we took a half day Thai massage class so we could have more affordable massages at home!

Ready to learn.

Our school was in our instructor's house.

And the house was located in this cute little lane.

We went again to the night food market near our guest house.

Cute little clam shells.

Chad tracks down a Thai dessert doughnut with green sauce.

And enjoys!

Our last night in Chiang Mai was a full moon and one of the three major Buddhist holidays of the year, called Magha Puja.  On this night, Thai Buddhists (and apparently the population is about 95% Buddhist) go to the temples to light candles and incense and then walk around the temple three times holding flowers, candles and incense. We went to check out the action and to take a walk around the temple with the locals (though we didn't light candles or incense, which somehow seemed as if it would be disingenuous).

Crowds of teenagers brought their scooters and their iPhones while paying their respects.




The light of the full moon wasn't quite this blurry as it shone down on the temple.

At the biggest temple in Chiang Mai, food vendors lined the street to feed hungry worshipers.  And to serve their holiday balloon needs.

Four days slipped though our fingers in no time.  It is fair to say that Chiang Mai provided further evidence that Thailand is an awesome place to visit!