Surf's Up!

Australia might not have invented surfing, but they have a good case to make that they're the world's premiere surfing nation.  So I thought it was high time - and good circumstances - to try surfing.  I had never tried surfing, boogie boarding or body surfing.  Never snowboarded or skateboarded or done anything where you ride "sideways".  Closest equivalent would be waterskiing when I has young.

There was a surf school in Coolangata at Rainbow Bay (not to be confused with Rainbow Beach on the Sunshine Coast).  It's small, but run by a former surf champion.  Turns out that I was the only one to sign up for a group lesson, so I ended up with a private lesson with a local surf legend who looked somewhat like Michael Palin.  Can't say enough about those guys - they didn't mess around, just got you right in the water, and gave great feedback.

Rainbow Bay is know as a great learn-to-surf spot, and the waves were just right when I headed out in the morning, so I surfed both of the first two waves I tried to catch!  Sarah missed taking photos since she figured I'd be falling off for the first while.  In those conditions, it was much easier to catch a wave than I imagined.

Surfing Canuck, woo hoo!

Getting ready

Getting up

And surfing!

Rode a few waves right in to the beach

Owner and his dad on the left, my instructor on the right

Several days later, I took another surf lesson at Rainbow Beach on the Sunshine Coast.  (The first was so successful, I figured I needed to build on it.)  This was a group lesson, including a 30 minute beach drive in a 4x4 to get to the point break on the other side of the bay where the surfing happens.  (That's right, a point break - I got to channel my inner Swayze.)  Sarah wasn't there to take photos, but there was less to shoot anyway - the surf wasn't that great (another student said it was way better the day before), and there was a lot more walking and paddling at this beach.

Beach driving

The conditions

Chad in his "rashie" (rash vest)

Somehow I managed to wrench my back during this surf day, though I have no idea how.  I didn't fall awkwardly, or strain myself, or crash into anything.  I just pulled myself onto my board one time, and discovered I had shooting pains through my back and ribs.  If I had done something stupid I could write it off as being old and overzealous, but that's not it.  Unfortunately, this has limited further surfing opportunities since then. (Try finding an available chiropractor over Christmas holidays in Australia - impossible.  It's now into the new year, and my ribs/back are still tender.)  Perhaps some upper body and core exercise would be in order once the back is feeling better!

Anyway, surfing is great, and it's not that tough to catch a wave if conditions are right.  (I think the childhood waterskiing really helped my balance, though.)  The hardest part is paddling out into the waves (exhausting) and choosing the right wave (requires experience).  But let's be clear - becoming a good surfer is difficult.

Now I can be one of those annoying guys who doesn't really surf, but who talks about it constantly and uses all the right lingo.  Sweet!  :-)